Romo Fabrics FAQ: Logo, Samples, Textile Gloves, Upholstery Types & Kevlar Cutting

Romo Fabrics & Wallcoverings: Your Practical Questions Answered

This FAQ covers the questions I get asked most often when procurement managers or designers call in. It's the stuff you need to know before you order—from logo specs for your project to how to cut Kevlar for that specialty installation. I'll share what I've learned tracking thousands of orders over the past six years. Let's get straight to it.

1. Is there a specific Romo logo file format I need for my project?

Yes, and it's simpler than you might think. For most residential or commercial projects, you don't actually need our logo at all—your work speaks for itself. But if your contract requires a 'supplier logo' on documentation or your website's sourcing page, we provide vector files (AI, EPS) and high-res PNGs. I always recommend the AI format because it's scalable without pixelation.

Quick tip: don't use a JPEG for a large banner. I saw a designer do that once (ugh) and it looked terrible at scale. Request the vector file from your rep. (We usually respond within 24 hours for logo requests.)

2. How do I request Romo fabric samples, and is there a cost?

You request them directly through your trade account or via a local showroom. Large cuttings (like a full yard for a mock-up) usually have a nominal charge—around $15 to $25, depending on the collection (as of Q4 2024). But here's the thing: if you're requesting 20+ small swatches for a commercial bid, many showrooms will comp them to keep the order moving. It's all about the volume of the potential order.

I'll tell you what I tell my team: order samples early. If you're comparing three velvet options, get them all in hand before you spec. It's a small upfront cost that prevents a huge headache later. Oh, and tracking? They'll give you a tracking number, but don't panic if it takes 3–5 business days (standard for mail).

3. What type of upholstery fabric is best for a high-traffic office chair?

That depends entirely on your traffic level and cleaning schedule. For an office chair that gets used eight hours a day, five days a week, I usually steer people toward a high-performance twill or a solution-dyed nylon blend.

Here's my logic: velvets look amazing (and Romo has gorgeous ones), but they can show wear patterns on high-contact surfaces like armrests and seats. A tightly woven twill (like something from the Linara range) handles abrasion better. I'm not saying don't use velvet (it's beautiful), I'm saying you need to be realistic about the location. If it's a guest chair that gets light use? Go velvet. If it's the CEO's daily driver? Stick to the hard-working twill or a knit with high double-rub count. Your mileage may vary depending on your cleaning crew's habits.

4. Textile gloves—are they really necessary for handling these fabrics?

Honestly, yes, especially for darker, delicate velvets and wallcoverings. I used to think it was an overkill until I audited our 2023 spending and found we had $4,200 in rejected goods because of oil stains from bare hands during installation.

Textile gloves (white cotton or nitrile) prevent natural oils from your skin from marking the fabric. They aren't just for handling Kevlar or industrial textiles. For a designer handling sample books all day, they're a low-cost insurance policy. For an installation team working with a $200/yard Romo velvet? Non-negotiable. Should mention: gloves are a tiny cost relative to the cost of a reclamation. I built that cost into our procurement policy after getting burned twice.

5. How do you cut Kevlar fabric without ruining your tools?

Now this is a niche one, but I get asked it more than you'd think—usually for custom upholstery on security doors or architectural panels. Kevlar is horrible for standard scissors. It dulls them instantly. If I remember correctly, a good pair of shears is shot after just a few cuts.

My advice: use a rotary cutter with a fresh carbide blade on a self-healing mat. Do not use pinking shears. Do not try to snap it like paper. The fibers are aramid; they resist tearing. A hot knife is also an option for clean edges (it fuses the material), but that's specialized equipment most shops won't have. For a one-off job, buy a dedicated, cheap pair of scissors and accept you'll throw them away after. (Circa 2023, I learned this the hard way when I trashed a $60 pair of Ginghers.)

What I mean is: budget for tool wear if you're cutting this stuff regularly. It's a hidden cost of the material.

6. Why is Romo wallcovering priced differently than the fabric, even if they look the same?

I hear this complaint a lot. The short answer: they aren't the same product, even if the pattern matches. Wallcoverings are manufactured to a different spec—they're heavier, often fire-rated for commercial use, and have a different paper or non-woven backing to hang straight.

The price difference isn't arbitrary. Over the past 6 years of tracking invoices, I've seen that wallcoverings often carry a 20–40% premium over the fabric counterpart. That covers the additional fire testing (which is a real cost—ASTM E84 tests aren't cheap) and the thicker substrate. I should add: if you try to hang fabric on a wall without the proper backing or treatment, you risk bubbling and failure. That's a $5,000 redo waiting to happen. Pay for the wallcovering. It's cheaper than the redo.